11/10/2009

4 Million Motorbikes in Hanoi

Being already almost out of the Vietnam, it is time to write about my time in the grand old dame of the Orient. After about 3 weeks in Thailand it was the right time for a new country and as expected everything is "same same, but different". Arriving at Hanoi airport from our transfer over Bangkok, I was quite surprised about my positive first impression of the capital city. The city is less smelly, less chaotic, less dirty, but more lively, more asean and more authentic than Bangkok. Arrived into the old quarter after an hour ride on the local bus costing 5000 dong (30 cent). Since we were the only tourists on the bus, the locals were quite surprised as well - starring at us - luckily in an admiring and gentle way.
We checked into our hostel in the old quarter extending outwards from Hoan Kiem Lake. The Lonely planet describes it as follows: This is the Asia we dreamed of from afar. Steeped in history, pulsating with life, bubbling with commerce, bubbling with motorbikes and rich in exotic scents, the Old Quarter is Hanoi's historic heart. Hawkers pound the streets, sizzling and smoking baskets hiding a cheap meal for locals. Pho (noodle soup) stalls and bia hoi (draught beer) dens hug every corner, resonant with the sound of gossip and laughter. Modern yet medieval, there is no better way to spend some time in Hanoi than walking the streets, simply soaking up the sights, sounds and smells.
However, being part of the old quarter includes getting used and part of Hanoi's traffic. Imagine a steady stream of motorbikes and cars on the streets and your desperate wish to cross the streets. Unluckily, the motorbikes will not stop for you. Thus, the first challenge is to reach the other side of the street without getting hurt, while drivers signal you and everyone else - well, I am not really sure what they actually signal you, it is more or less their rare existence on the streets. I still believe that most people in Vietnam but be death by the end of their second year or at least resistent to the honking noise.
Walked the narrow streets with frenchy houses, visited the Water Puppet Theatre and the Temple of Literature, dedicated to Confucius in 1070 and later established as a university for the education of mandarins and spent the evenings at the Cinematheque, a small frenchy cinema showing arthouse movies (watched a Cantonese Hong Kong Movie with English subtitles: Perhaps Love - Peter Chan) and at the Hanoi Opera House seeing the Symphony Orchestra of the Vietnam National Opera and Ballet playing Grieg and Schubert. The least was a nice and kind of unexpected experience. I was worried about my dresscode, until I saw visitors in the second row wearing jeans and bringing plastic bags along, still enjoying the wonderful music.

Pics have to wait for now again, this computer is not recognizing any USB device.

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